Decided it was time to move away from the coast and see some more of Sicily. So Monday morning 2km walk to the Stazione Centrale in Siracusa and train from their to Modica. About a 1km walk from Modical mStazione to my hotel – located in the centre of Modica – La Mognolie.
Looking across the rooftops to top of Modica
Lovely room – and hotel had lovely terrace with a view across Modica.
Quasimodo
Visit to Quasimodo birthplace
After a rest walked up to the top of Modica – caught the Cathedral on the way up. Another lavish affair and headed from their to the top. Came across an excellent coffee shop on the way down. And then happened on Quasimodo’s birthplace when almost back down to lower Modica. Didn’t know much about Quasimodo – Nobel prize winner for Literature. But the twenty minutes om the hose in which he spent he first two years of his life was most enjoyable. Guide could not have been more helpful.
Cathedral, Modica
Of course when I got back down also had the opportunity to visit Modica’s second Cathedral – equally impressive.
Chocolate
When I got here learned that Modica sees itself as the capital of Chocolate in Italy. They make it differently – and it tastes different. Key difference in process seems to be: ‘Modica Chocolate is mainly made with cocoa and sugar mixed in a cold-working process. It has no added fats; in fact, it contains only the cocoa butter that is naturally present in cocoa beans.’
Continuing to work on the Italian
Fashion in Modica
Each day have returned to some of the materials from lessons in Cefalu. Have also tried reading the local newspaper and inflicted my few words on any willing victims.
Where next?
Had read about Ragusa and Ragusa Ibla. And also about Monterosso Almo and Enna. There seemed to ba an issue wrt Monterosso Almo – could not get there and back on the train in one day from Ragusa. But the next step seemed obvious – get to Ragusa.
Ragusa
Shipped out – by train – from Modica after only one night. First experience of a train delay – train was an hour late. Made no real difference. Arrived into Ragusa c. 1.00pm and took my familiar 20 minute walk to my accommodation: Locanda la MARIDIANA.
This gets top billing for accommodation, welcome and general hospitality over the two weeks. Simple Inn – had a bedroom (with balcony window), small study/ dressing room and small bathroom – in a 4/5 bed INN. Located about 5 mins from main piazza in Ragusa and 2 mins from steps down to Ragusa Ibla. Great hostess – all good recommendations re transport, restaurants, sight seeing, shopping. Breakfast in garden on villa around the corner each morning – fresh orange juice, coffee, meats, local cheeses, pastries – and friendly chat. Extended stay from 2 to 4 days.
Ragusa Superiore
CaravaggioFrom John the Baptist Cathedral
Visited Il Duomo (John the Baptist) and the exhibit of the Caravaggio next door. Spectacular Cathedral. The Caravaggio next door (on loan) was of John The Baptist, as a youth – and was supported by a number of other paintings (not Caravaggio) of John the Baptist. Shopping in Ragusa was also quite tempting and offered good value in men’s clothes.
Ragusa Superiore is laid out in straight streets cris crossing on the hill that is Ragusa. Felt a little like New York in layout – but different.
Friday evening in Ragusa saw me tuned into Youtube to watch live coverage of Kilmacud Crokes Senior Ladies Footballers v. Thomas Davis in Dublin County Final. A few puzzled Sicilians as I shouted out when Crokes got their winning goal. Great night to be a Crokes supported in Ragusa (or anywhere else).
Ragusa Ibla
Ventured down the steps on day 2 to Ragusa Ibla. Beautiful city – with lovely narrow winding streets.
See some more of Sicily - week 2 14
Visited the Cathedral and took the tour of the museum – fascinating. Got some insights into the rivalry between Ibla and Superiore. Again tempted by the shops. And the restaurants. Actually had to take shelter for an hour – huge thunder storm. Enjoyed the workout – taking the steps back up to Superiore.
Steps back up to Ragusa Sueriore
But enjoyed Ibla so much repeated the dose two days later – no regrets.
Palermo
See some more of Sicily - week 2 15
Technically stayed two nights – one on the way here and one on the way back. The second one was a Saturday night and most of a Sunday.
Marina Palermo
Loved Palermo – had completely underestimated it. In many respects took me back to me first visit to Rome 35 years ago – the buzz in the city on a Saturday evening, the marina, the markets on Sunday. And everything else.
Sunday markets PalermoPark front of palace Palermo
I think Palermo would be ideal for a long weekend in spring or late autumn – 4 days (given amount to see/ do and length of the flight). Will be back and have already recommended to a number of others.
Final thoughts
Before coming had not realised Sicily has a population similar to Ireland: c. 5m. But density per km is 190 per sq km v. 70 in Ireland. Had not thought about the number of times has been invaded or taken over – Carthage, Greece, Rome, Germans, Arabs, Normans, French, Spanish. Incredible mix of cultures. And throughout the country see memorials to the Reunification – plaques to great leaders at the time. And the great earthquake of 1693.
My basic efforts to learn Italian have been most stimulating (for the brain), enjoyable (and frustrating) but, most of all, have added to the quality of my experience in Sicily and my interactions with people wherever I have gone.
Very much recommend Sicily to all visitors. And allow some time to see some of Sicily such as Ragusa or Modica – the cities/ towns/ villages away from the coast.
It’s been a great week in Sicily. Came September this year (Puglia in October last year) – and the weather has been so much warmer – late 20s to early 30s – sun on your back!
Travel by train (il treno)
Decided not to hire a car – and no regrets. Train from Palermo was simple and the train trip from Cefalu (two changes) to Siracusa was very straightforward and on time all the way. No need for car in either location (Cefalu/ Siracusa). Had a 10 minute stroll to hotel in Cefalu and a 20 minute stroll to apartment in Siracuse in centro storico.
Trenitalia app and FFP2 mask
Sicily Week 1 - la dolce vita 24
Trains very comfortable, very clean and cheap (€17.50 from Cefalu to Syracusa). All seems a lot easier than when interrailing (in 1981) – just downloaded my Trenitalia app – select and pay – show the online ticket on the train. Everyone is required to wear a mask on the train (per viaggiare su tuttii treni e obbligatorio indossare la mascherina di tipo FFP2).
Learning Italian
6 years of Latin and Greek, 4 years of German and French, 14 years of Irish. Plenty of effort invested by others (and not a little by myself) – not much sign of it in spoken foreign languages. All three kids educated through Irish and comfortable with other languages. Have had a hankering for a long time to try Italian (Latin, Music, the food…).
Spent 90 minutes Monday to Friday in one on one classes in @solemarsicilia in Cefalu. And really enjoyed the challenge – putting the mind (and memory) to work. Great insegnante (Marco Iacono) – and felt like I have made a good start. Lots of pointers re Sicily, discussions of politics. (The real bonus was that Marco has read Joyce). In fairness have found all Sicilians supportive of efforts to speak Italian.
Cefalu
Loved my five days there – three in a hotel (Artemis) and two in an apartment in the centro storico. Hotel was excellent. Apartment probably too small – but brilliantly located. Lovely place to stay a week.
Sicily Week 1 - la dolce vita 25
Sea swimming twice most days. Excellent food. And too many places for cafe, dolce or gelati. And also found Gourmet Deco Cefalu – like an upmarket M&M food hall – with local produce.
La Piazza di Duomo
Visited the Duomo – very impressive. Walked around the boundaries of the seawalls.
Siracusa
The advice had been – got to go to Siracusa – the most beautiful of the Sicilian cities – Greek history and influence. Incorporates the island – Ortigia. And did not disappoint. Took an apartment in the centro storico – on Ortigia (About a 25 minute walk from the Stazione). Very comfortable and central.
Last year when in Puglia I visited Gallipoli – a similar idea to Siracusa. But no real comparison.
Some of the highlights of Siracusa:
Walking the Perimeter of Ortigia
Abut an hour’s walk – beautiful views, the marina, fortress, beaches from which to swim, some very classy looking hotels.
So nice to be able to just walk from the apartment, down the steps and in for a swim – real city living! and the same complaint as elsewhere in Sicily – so warm it’s hardly refreshing (for an Irish person that is).
Saturday market
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What a buzz, colour, mix of people, fantastic collection of foods – fish, meat, cheese, vegetables, fruit, spices. And people just sitting down to have the produce.
Parco Archaeologica di syracusa
Greek theatre
2km stroll out on Sunday morning from Ortigia. And what a great site – Greek and Roman theatres.
Roman Theatre
Reflections after week 1 in Sicily
Sicily has blown me away. Was here 2 5 years ago to attend a wedding in the Valley of the Temples – but had no idea that there was no much to the island. People have been so friendly, food great and scenery spectacular. The trains run on time. the sea, the beaches, the churches.
Taking first tentative steps in learning the language has been great – and will be key to understanding/ enjoying the culture in a richer way.
When you think of Roman Empire, Renaissance, look at all the learning, culture, music and what Italy has been through – difficult to understand Italy’s current standing globally. Feel like they need another Risurgimento – of sorts. So much to give – and we have so much to learn.
Downloaded trenitalia app and bought ticket (€.6.20) for Palermo to Cefalu. Walked to Central station. Great to have ticket – nasty queue. 45 mins and arrived – was required to wear a mask on the train.
Checked into hotel and then onto to Italian school Solimar Sicilia – 5 mins from hotel and 5 mins from station.
Beautiful Cefalu
And after lessons did not have far to go for a swim and some sun.
Il centro storico
Nice stroll through the city.
Great night sky – looking all the way back to Palermo
Lovely walking tour of the City Monday evening with some fellow students (German and Swedish) – facilitated by Mauro from the Italian school. Followed by un appertivo in la piazza.
Aircoach on time and excellent – as I head for Palermo in Sicily. Security at Dublin Airport zero delays. Airport good. Ryanair 90 mins late – delayed on way in from Athens. Taxi to Palermo – crazy lane swapping, finishing with 80kmph down a 30! Nice hotel. The 20 min walk to Stazione centrale more like 30- but who’s counting? Feels like am back interrailing. Due at language school in Cefalu c. 11am.
M2m Day 5 – Excitement, relief, achievement, never again, can’t wait for the next one, once on a life time, fatigue, pride – and lots more thoughts for everyone
Letterkenny to Malin Head
Nice to be only cycling 80km in a day. But what a finishing route – legs may be hurting, but brilliant sunshine as we headed out across beautiful Donegal. And the route has a couple of testing hills 0 to check that each of us still have something in the tank.
The stop at Malin village was very special – a chance to relax, reflect – before the hype/ excitement of Malin Head itself. Lots of photos, ice-creams, chat. And then the 14km winding route out to Malin Head itself.
Malin Head – no way to avoid a sharp, nasty 150m climb – everyone made it. Wonderful to be clapped and supported all the way to the top. Lots of friends and relatives there to support. But that feeling – that you have done this – a group of 90 people – 10 working for 5 days to make sure the other 80 can sit on their bikes and cycle and get it done.
The celebrations
Down to the Seaview Tavern. Surrender the bikes to our support crew – still working. Chance to relax, catch up with supporters, rest the bodies. And an outstanding Munster Final as a bonus. And then back to Buncrana for the end of M2M2022 dinner – with some outstanding speeches/ recitations from Brendan, Liam and Jim. Great evening.
So what next?
We have seen what can be done with lots of preparation and support – moving 80 cyclists from one end of the country to the other in 5 days – safely. We have experienced what it is to be part of something like this.
I feel very privileged to have been a participant. This was my third M2M – and they have all been fantastically rewarding experiences – testing myself, building new friendships, raising money for Breast Cancer Ireland and development of our club, seeing how other people tackle challenges. Mostly, though, just being part of something very worthwhile.
Kilmacud Crokes a stronger club than ever – with all these new bonds and friendships. We will finalise all the amounts collected and handover funds to Breast Cancer Ireland and the Club in the next few weeks.
We are all a lot fitter – and much better cyclists. So – we need to get out there and enjoy cycling and every other exercise. As we were reminded last night – M2M is an event within KC Wheelers – we want people cycling regularly and enjoying it. Up the Crokes.
Finally – a few memories of 2016, 2018 and 2022 (all seems like one to me)
This time we stayed in Lehinch and headed for Kiltimagh. 6 years ago we went from Ennistimon to Ballina. Much bigger group now, weather just as good – this was a shorter spin (but tomorrow we will make up for it as we have 180km to our next stop in Letterkenny).
What I did notice this time was the ease with which all the cyclists climbed out of Ennistimon. All the training has paid off – and the consistent encouragement of Donie and Linda!
Lehinch onto Kinvara.
Beautiful weather. Down Corkscrew Hill into Ballyvaughan. And from there pressed on to Kinvara for an idylic stop and a well earned coffee.
M2M also about the hard yards
Yes – the company is great, the craic is mighty, some of the scenery is fantastic. But getting from one end of the country to the other also requires effort and focus on safety. The 2nd half of the morning – cycling from Kinvara up to ClareGalway had all of us working hard – hard months of practice paid off as ‘up and over’ was called again and again. Great gathering of all the cyclists in Claregalway – sharing stories from the road and encouraging each other And our support crew always there to help.
And the planning never stops – cyclists across different hotels (right bags in the right hotel), on the road stops, departure times, coordinating early breakfasts, meeting up with people as we travel through the country.
And then back in the saddle – tough afternoon on busy roads up to Knock and left for Kiltimagh. And I think plenty of us feeling the effort after 400km in the first three days.
Dinner in the Cill Aodain Court Hotel – Kiltimagh
Once again we all sat down to dinner. And Liam O’Carroll treated us to ‘The West’s Awake’. Congratulations to the manager and the staff on an excellent meal. This is one cyclist who polished everything off.
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Beautiful weather. Down 
And then back in the saddle 
– tough afternoon on busy roads up to Knock and left for Kiltimagh. And I think plenty of us feeling the effort after 400km in the first three days.
And Liam O’Carroll treated us to ‘The West’s Awake’. 
Congratulations to the manager and the staff on an excellent meal. This is one cyclist who polished everything off.