Week 2 was less structured (no Italian lessons) and very chilled.
Modica
Decided it was time to move away from the coast and see some more of Sicily. So Monday morning 2km walk to the Stazione Centrale in Siracusa and train from their to Modica. About a 1km walk from Modical mStazione to my hotel – located in the centre of Modica – La Mognolie.
Lovely room – and hotel had lovely terrace with a view across Modica.
Quasimodo
After a rest walked up to the top of Modica – caught the Cathedral on the way up. Another lavish affair and headed from their to the top. Came across an excellent coffee shop on the way down. And then happened on Quasimodo’s birthplace when almost back down to lower Modica. Didn’t know much about Quasimodo – Nobel prize winner for Literature. But the twenty minutes om the hose in which he spent he first two years of his life was most enjoyable. Guide could not have been more helpful.
Of course when I got back down also had the opportunity to visit Modica’s second Cathedral – equally impressive.
Chocolate
When I got here learned that Modica sees itself as the capital of Chocolate in Italy. They make it differently – and it tastes different. Key difference in process seems to be: ‘Modica Chocolate is mainly made with cocoa and sugar mixed in a cold-working process. It has no added fats; in fact, it contains only the cocoa butter that is naturally present in cocoa beans.’
Continuing to work on the Italian
Each day have returned to some of the materials from lessons in Cefalu. Have also tried reading the local newspaper and inflicted my few words on any willing victims.
Where next?
Had read about Ragusa and Ragusa Ibla. And also about Monterosso Almo and Enna. There seemed to ba an issue wrt Monterosso Almo – could not get there and back on the train in one day from Ragusa. But the next step seemed obvious – get to Ragusa.
Ragusa
Shipped out – by train – from Modica after only one night. First experience of a train delay – train was an hour late. Made no real difference. Arrived into Ragusa c. 1.00pm and took my familiar 20 minute walk to my accommodation: Locanda la MARIDIANA.
Locanda la Maridiana
This gets top billing for accommodation, welcome and general hospitality over the two weeks. Simple Inn – had a bedroom (with balcony window), small study/ dressing room and small bathroom – in a 4/5 bed INN. Located about 5 mins from main piazza in Ragusa and 2 mins from steps down to Ragusa Ibla. Great hostess – all good recommendations re transport, restaurants, sight seeing, shopping. Breakfast in garden on villa around the corner each morning – fresh orange juice, coffee, meats, local cheeses, pastries – and friendly chat. Extended stay from 2 to 4 days.
Ragusa Superiore
Visited Il Duomo (John the Baptist) and the exhibit of the Caravaggio next door. Spectacular Cathedral. The Caravaggio next door (on loan) was of John The Baptist, as a youth – and was supported by a number of other paintings (not Caravaggio) of John the Baptist. Shopping in Ragusa was also quite tempting and offered good value in men’s clothes.
Ragusa Superiore is laid out in straight streets cris crossing on the hill that is Ragusa. Felt a little like New York in layout – but different.
Friday evening in Ragusa saw me tuned into Youtube to watch live coverage of Kilmacud Crokes Senior Ladies Footballers v. Thomas Davis in Dublin County Final. A few puzzled Sicilians as I shouted out when Crokes got their winning goal. Great night to be a Crokes supported in Ragusa (or anywhere else).
Ragusa Ibla
Ventured down the steps on day 2 to Ragusa Ibla. Beautiful city – with lovely narrow winding streets.
Visited the Cathedral and took the tour of the museum – fascinating. Got some insights into the rivalry between Ibla and Superiore. Again tempted by the shops. And the restaurants. Actually had to take shelter for an hour – huge thunder storm. Enjoyed the workout – taking the steps back up to Superiore.
But enjoyed Ibla so much repeated the dose two days later – no regrets.
Palermo
Technically stayed two nights – one on the way here and one on the way back. The second one was a Saturday night and most of a Sunday.
Loved Palermo – had completely underestimated it. In many respects took me back to me first visit to Rome 35 years ago – the buzz in the city on a Saturday evening, the marina, the markets on Sunday. And everything else.
I think Palermo would be ideal for a long weekend in spring or late autumn – 4 days (given amount to see/ do and length of the flight). Will be back and have already recommended to a number of others.
Final thoughts
Before coming had not realised Sicily has a population similar to Ireland: c. 5m. But density per km is 190 per sq km v. 70 in Ireland. Had not thought about the number of times has been invaded or taken over – Carthage, Greece, Rome, Germans, Arabs, Normans, French, Spanish. Incredible mix of cultures. And throughout the country see memorials to the Reunification – plaques to great leaders at the time. And the great earthquake of 1693.
My basic efforts to learn Italian have been most stimulating (for the brain), enjoyable (and frustrating) but, most of all, have added to the quality of my experience in Sicily and my interactions with people wherever I have gone.
Very much recommend Sicily to all visitors. And allow some time to see some of Sicily such as Ragusa or Modica – the cities/ towns/ villages away from the coast.
