Palermo-Cefalu-Siracusa
It’s been a great week in Sicily. Came September this year (Puglia in October last year) – and the weather has been so much warmer – late 20s to early 30s – sun on your back!
Travel by train (il treno)
Decided not to hire a car – and no regrets. Train from Palermo was simple and the train trip from Cefalu (two changes) to Siracusa was very straightforward and on time all the way. No need for car in either location (Cefalu/ Siracusa). Had a 10 minute stroll to hotel in Cefalu and a 20 minute stroll to apartment in Siracuse in centro storico.
Trenitalia app and FFP2 mask
Trains very comfortable, very clean and cheap (€17.50 from Cefalu to Syracusa). All seems a lot easier than when interrailing (in 1981) – just downloaded my Trenitalia app – select and pay – show the online ticket on the train. Everyone is required to wear a mask on the train (per viaggiare su tuttii treni e obbligatorio indossare la mascherina di tipo FFP2).
Learning Italian
6 years of Latin and Greek, 4 years of German and French, 14 years of Irish. Plenty of effort invested by others (and not a little by myself) – not much sign of it in spoken foreign languages. All three kids educated through Irish and comfortable with other languages. Have had a hankering for a long time to try Italian (Latin, Music, the food…).
Spent 90 minutes Monday to Friday in one on one classes in @solemarsicilia in Cefalu. And really enjoyed the challenge – putting the mind (and memory) to work. Great insegnante (Marco Iacono) – and felt like I have made a good start. Lots of pointers re Sicily, discussions of politics. (The real bonus was that Marco has read Joyce). In fairness have found all Sicilians supportive of efforts to speak Italian.
Cefalu
Loved my five days there – three in a hotel (Artemis) and two in an apartment in the centro storico. Hotel was excellent. Apartment probably too small – but brilliantly located. Lovely place to stay a week.
Sea swimming twice most days. Excellent food. And too many places for cafe, dolce or gelati. And also found Gourmet Deco Cefalu – like an upmarket M&M food hall – with local produce.
Visited the Duomo – very impressive. Walked around the boundaries of the seawalls.
Siracusa
The advice had been – got to go to Siracusa – the most beautiful of the Sicilian cities – Greek history and influence. Incorporates the island – Ortigia. And did not disappoint. Took an apartment in the centro storico – on Ortigia (About a 25 minute walk from the Stazione). Very comfortable and central.
Last year when in Puglia I visited Gallipoli – a similar idea to Siracusa. But no real comparison.
Some of the highlights of Siracusa:
Walking the Perimeter of Ortigia
Abut an hour’s walk – beautiful views, the marina, fortress, beaches from which to swim, some very classy looking hotels.
Visit to Castello Maniace
Right at the tip of the island.
Hosting a great exhibition by David Dal Osso. This video made on my samsung gives some idea of the exhibit.
Swimming off Ortigia
So nice to be able to just walk from the apartment, down the steps and in for a swim – real city living! and the same complaint as elsewhere in Sicily – so warm it’s hardly refreshing (for an Irish person that is).
Saturday market
What a buzz, colour, mix of people, fantastic collection of foods – fish, meat, cheese, vegetables, fruit, spices. And people just sitting down to have the produce.
Parco Archaeologica di syracusa
2km stroll out on Sunday morning from Ortigia. And what a great site – Greek and Roman theatres.
Reflections after week 1 in Sicily
Sicily has blown me away. Was here 2 5 years ago to attend a wedding in the Valley of the Temples – but had no idea that there was no much to the island. People have been so friendly, food great and scenery spectacular. The trains run on time. the sea, the beaches, the churches.
Taking first tentative steps in learning the language has been great – and will be key to understanding/ enjoying the culture in a richer way.
When you think of Roman Empire, Renaissance, look at all the learning, culture, music and what Italy has been through – difficult to understand Italy’s current standing globally. Feel like they need another Risurgimento – of sorts. So much to give – and we have so much to learn.
